In the (Smokey) Studio with Steve Cohen

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So I've been talking a lot about fire imagery lately as a trend, and it's also seeped into my consciousness as something I wanted to work with in my own photography. In fact, I spent last weekend obsessing about a series of different kinds of flowers on fire, as sort of a still-life study, but also as something beautiful and unexpected. And then Steve Cohen sent me the above image. Now I have to rethink my own project, but not before I purchase a print of that flaming bouquet. Or maybe the glowing book, I can't decide.

I visited Steve Cohen's studio a few weeks back, in an attempt to gain a bit more of a foothold on what a still-life photographer's practice is actually like, and how one gets started doing such precise and painstaking work.

Cohen went to RIT in the '80s, which was at the time a very commercial program. Had he not become a photographer, he thinks he would have ended up in product design or some sort of engineering. The draw of the blending of science and art has always intrigued him. He told me he's interested in objects for their volume, shape and texture and how nature informs their design. And indeed, his studio is filled with objects like tree bark and sea sponges that he's explored photographically. A lot of Cohen's work comes from entities like Nordstrom's for whom he shoots handbags and cosmetics, but he approaches every shoot like a story, with a context and subtext.

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Cohen was kind enough to answer some of my specific questions about fire, gear, and his recent campaign for Absolut. Here are the answers.


I know you are very controlled in terms of how you shoot, and that you love the precision your job brings. Do you think most photo editors and buyers recognize the nuances of product photography? Who are the folks that really "get it"? And what does "getting it" entail?

I do love that aspect of my job, but I think by calling it "product" photography it does still-life work a disservice. It is technical by its very nature but it need not be boring or without point of view and passion. A still life can be any image. Burtynsky's work is still-life, so is Crewdson's in my opinion.

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The best relationships with photo editors, buyers and creative directors comes from a mutual respect for what we each do best and our willingness to share our points of view and knowledge with each other. Language and semantics are very important as well - verbal and visual - especially when working together for the first time. Often, the beginning of a working relationship is the beginning of a dialogue. Over time a shorthand develops as you become familiar. The people that "get it" are those that speak the language and are enlivened by that dialogue. There is also much to be said for having a sense of humor and an inquisitive nature.


Who are other photographers you're influenced by? Is anyone in the product photography field really innovating things right now (everyone's talking about those sunglasses dripping in honey)...

Flavor of the month will always be just that - creative evolution is more of a challenge I think. The thread that connects one artist's work throughout their career regardless of what they shoot or paint or sculpt is what I try to key in on in my work. I think photographers like Nick Knight, Raymond Meier, Irving Penn (can't shoot still life and not mention Penn) all have something that readily identifies their particular vision. Filmmakers like Antonioni, Tarkovsky, Kieslowski, Man Ray, Hitchcock, Cocteau all inspire me. Fine artists like Richard Serra and Joseph Beuys, architect Santiago Calatrava all have a lot to offer visually. Architecture speaks to me much like still-life photography does.


How did you land the Absolut campaign, and what are the tricks of the shoot? (Is that real ice, plexi?) Straight shot, or comped?

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I bid on a project with the same client earlier in the year. While that project was killed by the client, a few months later I was contacted by the agency to do the iceberg branding campaign for Absolut Global Cooling. It was not to be a bid - I had made an impression on the art director, Stephanie Goralnick, and when this project was green lighted she knew she wanted to work with me on it. We spoke a similar language, we learned things from one another, we had already begun the dialogue.

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There were several components to the shoot. A modelmaker, Mark Borow at PropArt, hand sculpted two icebergs that could be rotated in the round and be photographed from multiple angles as there needed to be 4 distinct images. After Stephanie and I approved the sculptures, they were cast in resin and tooled further. The concept was a trick of scale. Iceberg at sea or cocktail glass and rocks. Real icebergs are pale blue and fairly opaque but that would be unappetizing so we needed to have them made in a way that the translucency and clarity of ice would still be there. The icebergs were rigged above a plexiglass tank filled partially with water to create a water horizon line. The images are composited from elements of real ice hunks, the resin icebergs, air bubbles and condensation that formed naturally on the front of the tank. Color was added in post production as it provided one too many variables and would need to be fine tuned after the fact regardless. The retouching was done by Shoot Digital.


Gear dork-out. What's your typical camera set-up, your computer gear, and how do you print?
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The majority of my work is captured digitally with either a Sinar large format or Hasselblad medium format body and a Leaf high resolution capture back. I use Broncolor strobes and Arri hot lights. I use the ubiquitous Apple MacPro and do the printing on an Epson 3800. I am not a total gear freak - I don't need to have the very newest thingy, but I like what works and works well. Grids and plexiglass have become good friends of mine as have redundant hard drives. I don't concern myself obsessively about my tool box - I will walk through a shoot from many approaches in my head and make sure I have what I need on hand.

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What drew you to explore fire in your personal work? Fire seems unpredictable, like it would signal a lack of control. Did this interest you, in that you spend so much time controlling your shooting environment for work?

In the match story, I wanted to illustrate fire's transformative nature. Something as strong and graphic as a grid of close to 1000 matches will be changed radically by the effect of their burning. I didn't know what would happen and that was scary but also liberating for me. It has been my goal lately to loosen up and get messy - not be attached to outcome and enjoy the process.

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The other, environmental, fire story is about developing a character without using a person in the images. A raging fire in the settings I photographed would certainly be unwelcome and frightening if this were your home. The character I set out to illustrate has a certain amount of control over her ability to start fires but she is not always in control of her gift/curse. She surrounds herself with peaceful soothing colors and is aware of her dilemma and accepts herself for who she is. I wanted to photograph several scenarios where it got out of hand. It also has to do with how life can be going along without a hitch and suddenly there is a metaphoric fire that needs to be put out. A potentially life altering situation that you didn't see coming. Ultimately I see them as more funny than scary. I love pairing incongruity in a witty way. They were photographed with the intention of using them for a promotional vehicle of some sort and will be supported with copy written specifically for the piece.


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| Comments (4)

4 Comments

Delicious. Me likes. Think you or one of your cohorts pointed me his way before. Really lovin' it.
Personally I've been playing with ice recently...

http://pa.photoshelter.com/gallery-show?G_ID=G0000mP5lNf5kLkM

Interesting. I've toyed with the fire idea before, must try some ice.

Nice Panerai watch!

Good stuff...

The iceberg shot is very similar to one of my past professor's famous stock shot of a real iceberg. It is a pretty amazing shot. Check it out at http://www.ralphclevenger.com/ Go to the earth gallery and it should be the first shot.

I remember seeing the Absolute ad and thinking that my he might have shot it.

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This is an interview with Steve Cohen about his recent work. He discusses his Absolut ad, his gear, and his fire imagery. Read More

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